Haikou, the vibrant capital of Hainan province, is often overshadowed by its southern neighbor Sanya. However, recent trends show a shift toward "reverse travel," where savvy explorers choose Haikou for its authentic cultural atmosphere, lower costs, and slower pace of life. Known as the "Coconut City," Haikou offers a unique blend of historical Nanyang architecture, cutting-edge modern design, and a legendary food scene that defines the island's soul.
Historical Charms: Qilou Old Street and the Clock Tower
The heartbeat of old Haikou resides in Qilou Old Street. This area features well-preserved architectural styles influenced by the "Nanyang" (South Seas) region, brought back by overseas Chinese in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The intricate facades and arched walkways create a nostalgic backdrop perfect for photography.
Just a short walk away is the Haikou Clock Tower, a landmark built in the 1920s. To capture its best side, locals recommend visiting in the morning to avoid the harsh backlight that occurs in the afternoon. Walking through these streets feels like stepping back into a different era, especially when you encounter the local "Old Father Tea" houses.
Modern Wonders: The Wormhole Library and Sky Mountain
Haikou has recently reinvented itself with stunning seaside architecture. The Wormhole Library (Yun Dong Library), designed by MAD Architects, has become an international icon. Its curved, organic white structure looks like a cloud resting on the shore. Inside, readers enjoy quiet alcoves with views of the ocean.
Sky Mountain (Tian Kong Zhi Shan) is another must-visit station on the coast. It features a sloping white roof that visitors can walk on, providing a perfect vantage point for the sunset over Century Bridge. These locations represent the new, artistic face of the city.
A Culinary Journey: From Morning Tea to Night Markets
Food is arguably the main reason many travelers visit Haikou. To eat like a local, you must experience Old Father Tea (Lao Ba Cha). This is more than a meal; it is a lifestyle. Traditionally enjoyed after 2:00 PM, locals gather to drink red tea and snack on a massive variety of dim sum, breads, and small plates. It is the peak of Haikou’s "chill" culture.
For dinner, Coconut Chicken is a staple—using fresh coconut water as a base to cook tender Wenchang chicken. Another iconic dish is Zaopo Vinegar (Hainan’s "island soup"), a sour and spicy hotpot base made from fermented rice grains. End your night at the Haidananmen Night Market, where you can find Qingbuliang, a refreshing coconut milk dessert filled with fruits, beans, and jellies.
The Duty-Free Shopping Experience
Haikou is home to the cdf Haikou International Duty-Free City, the world’s largest single duty-free shop. It is a futuristic mall that feels more like an art gallery, featuring giant 27-meter screens and forest-themed installations. For those looking for deals on electronics, particularly the iPhone, the GDF Plaza in Riyue Square is often cited by shoppers as having competitive prices and frequent coupons.
Main Recommendations
Sightseeing & Culture
- Qilou Old Street (Post #1, #6, #11, #13, #36)
- Haikou Clock Tower (Post #1, #6, #9, #16)
- Wormhole Library (Yun Dong) (Post #1, #2, #8, #13, #23)
- Sky Mountain (Tian Kong Zhi Shan) (Post #6, #7, #9, #13, #22)
- Century Bridge (Post #2, #7, #13)
- Hainan Provincial Museum (Post #2, #7, #11, #47)
- Leiqiong Volcanic Cluster Global Geopark (Post #1, #2, #9, #39, #42, #45)
- Wanlv Garden (Post #6, #7, #9, #11, #13, #20)
- Haikou Bay (Post #1, #7, #16)
- Feng Xiaogang Movie Town (Post #7, #11)
- Dongpo Old Wharf (Post #12, #22, #47)
- Five Lord's Ancestral Hall (Wugong Temple) (Post #44)
- Baishamen Park (Post #12, #44)
- West Coast Sailboat Base (Post #1)
- Holiday Beach (Post #1, #2, #6, #7, #44)
- Haikou Zoo (Hainan Tropical Wildlife Park) (Post #33)
- Tashi Chen Clan Ancestral Hall (Post #49)
- Sun Jiang Yuan Old Shipyard (Post #50)
- Hainan Science and Technology Museum (Post #38)
- Thirty-Six Curves Creek Wetland Park (Post #72)
Dining & Night Markets
- Haidananmen Night Market (Post #6, #7, #10, #11, #12, #15)
- West Temple (Xitian Miao) Snack Street (Post #6, #7, #11, #12)
- Jinpan Night Market (Post #12)
- Water Lane Mouth (Shuixiangkou) (Post #7, #36)
- Old Father Tea Shops: Zhengfanghua, Xingfazhe, Jufuan, Qingxing (Post #31, #36, #62, #68)
- Coconut Chicken Restaurants: Longquanren, Yexiaoji, Beiwei 18 Degree (Post #6, #9, #11, #15, #31)
- Zaopo Vinegar Specialists: Taiqiong, Haidao, Fupo, Dapuzhao (Post #7, #11, #28, #34, #62)
- Specific Dishes: Hainan Rice Noodles, Baoluo Noodles, Spicy Soup Rice (Post #36), Roasted Pork Ribs (Post #36), Qingbuliang (Post #1, #11, #28).
Shopping
- cdf Haikou International Duty-Free City (Post #3, #9, #15, #63)
- Riyue Plaza (CDF & GDF) (Post #2, #9, #69)
- Meilan Airport Duty-Free (Post #9, #55)
- The MixC (Wanxiang Cheng) (Post #47, #56, #70)
- Longhu Paradise Walk (Post #56)
Tips & Insights
- Sun Protection: The Hainan sun is intense year-round. Bring sunglasses, hats, and high-SPF sunscreen (Post #1).
- Reservations: The Wormhole Library requires a reservation via a WeChat mini-program; do this several days in advance (Post #1, #8, #23).
- Timing for Old Father Tea: Visit after 2:00 PM for the most authentic and lively atmosphere in the old districts (Post #1).
- Transportation: Haikou does not have a subway. Use Didi (ride-hailing) or rent an e-bike for short trips. Traffic can be heavy during peak hours (Post #12, #34).
- Duty-Free Prep: Download the "cdf" and "GDF" apps beforehand to check prices and claim "early bird" vouchers for the airport (Post #55).
📍 Locations Guide
| Place Name | Address/Area | Google Maps | Apple Maps |
|---|---|---|---|
| Qilou Old Street | Longhua District, Haikou | Google Maps | Apple Maps |
| Wormhole Library | Century Park, Haikou | Google Maps | Apple Maps |
| Sky Mountain | Haidian Island, Haikou | Google Maps | Apple Maps |
| cdf International Duty-Free City | Haixiu West Road, Haikou | Google Maps | Apple Maps |
| Volcanic Geopark | Shishan Town, Haikou | Google Maps | Apple Maps |
| Haidananmen Night Market | Haidian 3rd East Rd, Haikou | Google Maps | Apple Maps |
| Century Bridge | Longhua District, Haikou | Google Maps | Apple Maps |
| Wanlv Garden | Binhai Avenue, Haikou | Google Maps | Apple Maps |
| Dongpo Old Wharf | Bihai Avenue, Haikou | Google Maps | Apple Maps |
| Hainan Provincial Museum | Guoxing Avenue, Haikou | Google Maps | Apple Maps |
Image Gallery
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